Table 2: Ingredients inducing stimulatory effects on the melanogenic pathway and their mechanisms of action.
Mechanism |
Compound |
Reference |
Binding to opiate receptor, acts like a β-endorphin |
Chaste berry |
Schmid et al., 2007 |
cAMP agonist, PKA activator |
Forskolin |
D’Orazio et al., 2006 |
Substrate for TYR |
3,4-DHP |
Lei et al., 2002a |
Stimulation of TYR activity and protein expression |
Nordihydroguaiaretic acid |
Takekoshi et al., 2014 |
Binding to MC1R, stimulation of the cAMP pathway and MITF |
α-MSH |
Lei et al., 2002a
Song et al., 2009
Abdel-Malek et al., 2009 |
Stimulation of MITF via activation of the PKA pathway |
8-MOP |
Lei et al., 2002b |
Stimulation of p378-MAPK, MITF, TYRP-1 and DCT |
Quercetin |
Mitsunaga and Yamauchi, 2015 |
Abbreviations
cAMP, cyclic Adenosine monophosphate; DCT, Dopachrome tautomerase; DHP, dihydroxyphenylalanine; MAPK, mitogen activated protein kinase; MC1R, melanocortin 1 receptor; MITF, microphtalmia-associated transcription factor; MOP, methoxypsoralen; MSH, melanocyte stimulating hormone; PKA, protein kinase A; TYRP-1, Tyrosinase related protein 1
Notes
Ingredients are listed in alphabetical order; references are listed in chronological order (where applicable). The list is not exhaustive and should serve only as a starting point for guidance into the topic of the manuscript.
References
- Z.A. Abdel-Malek, A. Ruwe, R. Kavanagh-Starner, A.L. Kadekaro, V. Swope, C. Haskell-Luevano, L. Koikov, and J.J. Knittel, alpha-MSH tripeptide analogs activate the melanocortin 1 receptor and reduce UV-induced DNA damage in human melanocytes, Pigment Cell Melanoma Res., 22, 635-644 (2009).
- J.A. D’Orazio, T. Nobuhisa, R. Cui, M. Arya, M. Spry, K. Wakamatsu, V. Igras, T. Kunisada, S.R. Granter, E.K. Nishimura, S. Ito, and D.E. Fisher, Topical drug rescue strategy and skin protection based on the role of Mc1r in UV-induced tanning, Nature, 443, 340-344 (2006).
- T.C. Lei, V.M. Virador, W.D. Vieira, and V.J. Hearing, A melanocyte-keratinocyte coculture model to assess regulators of pigmentation in vitro, Anal. Biochem., 305, 260-268 (2002a).
- T.C. Lei, V. Virador, K. Yasumoto, W.D. Vieira, K. Toyofuku, and V.J. Hearing, Stimulation of melanoblast pigmentation by 8-methoxypsoralen: the involvement of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, the protein kinase A signal pathway, and proteasome-mediated degradation, J. Invest. Dermatol., 119, 1341-1349 (2002b).
- T. Mitsunaga and K. Yamauchi, Effect of quercetin derivatives on melanogenesis stimulation of melanoma cells, J. Wood Sci., 61, 351-363 (2015).
- D. Schmid, E. Belser, and F. Zülli, Self-tanning based on stimulation of melanin biosynthesis, Cosmet. & Toil., 122, 55-62 (2007).
- X. Song, N. Mosby, J. Yang, A. Xu, Z. Abdel-Malek, and A.L. Kadekaro, alpha-MSH activates immediate defense responses to UV-induced oxidative stress in human melanocytes, Pigment Cell Melanoma Res., 22, 809-818 (2009).
- S. Takekoshi, H. Nagata, and K. Kitatani, Stimulation of melanogenesis by nordihydroguiaretic acid in human melanoma cells, Acta Histochem. Cytochem., 47, 203-210 (2014).